Crosswise threads can be identified by shading of heavy and light irregular strips. Lengthwise grain hands or falls more softly than crosswise grain. Another term often used is 'usable width of fabric', that means the width of your fabric minus its selvedges. Always keep in mind to iron the fabric toward the lengthwise grain, to keep it straight and prevent stretching. 4. Even when the fabric is cut in such a manner that selvage is not known, we should be able to know the grain line by eye. Hold the short corner with one hand and with the other hand, grasp the opposite corner. I know this is a bit late, but straight grain tends to stretch less than cross grain when pulled. When a pattern calls for lengthwise cut it shows Straight grain; Width wise is denoted as Off grain and Bias grain as Diagonal grain. Will 'stretch' before, during and after construction. This is important to note. Though, market is flooded with such designs, where the design runs crosswise instead of lengthwise. The lengthwise grain runs the entire length of the fabric as it comes off the bolt in the fabric store. A dress cut on the cross grain have a stiff awkward look and it is uncomfortable as well. Now that your fabric has been washed and pre-cut, you’ll have to re-establish the fold line on the correct grain. @Barbara – That’s a bit of a tough one. She demonstrates how you can find the straight grain of fabric by making a small cut with fabric scissors and then tearing the fabric. The diagonal line resulting when lengthwise grain exactly falls on cross wise grain is called as true bias. The lengthwise grain shows the threads that run parallel with selvage or self edge. But if not, just pull until the fabric puckers along the thread, then keep bunching the fabric and pulling every few inches until the pucker reaches the opposite selvage. Using this thread line as your guide, cut all the way across the fabric. Straight grain is in the direction of the warp threads, which run parallel to the selvages, and cross grain runs in the direction of the weft threads, which run perpendicular to the selvage edges. 6. Straight cutting is at an angle of 90 degree to the selvage, whereas with a true bias, cut the pattern pieces laid at a 45 degree to the selvage. How to Decide when to Hand Stitch or Machine Stitch? While you are making your own sewing pattern at home, you can keep these tips in consideration. 2. On our pattern pieces you will find a double arrow that indicates the direction of the grain and must be placed parallel to the selvedge (unless otherwise stated). Your fabric grain can be off a little bit and it won’t affect your project. If the garment is not made a certain way, the seams and hems can bunch and twist, instead of lying smoothly. To do this, lay out your fabric panel right side up and flat on your work surface. When cutting across the grain, or on grain for that matter, you want to make sure your fabric is squared, before cutting. It will move and curve and do as you please. The stretch in the bias makes it easier to maneuver the binding around the quilt’s curved edges. If you’re not sure, make your best guess. 2. While weaving, warp threads are held under tension on a loom and weft (filler) threads are run back and forth from selvedge to the other side, that made up fabric. a stripe). When you buy fabric off the bolt at a store, the selvages are approximately lined up to create a fold. 9. 10.Bias cut seams are not inclined to fray. The cross grain is always perpendicular to the selvage. They lack uniformity. We know that a fabric is made from fiber. Press Your Fabric After Washing. This is mostly done when attempting to fit as many pattern pieces as possible on a smaller fabric space. You see, each pieces of fabric is made of thousands of threads. ANY REDISTRIBUTION OR REPRODUCTION OF PART OR ALL OF THE CONTENTS OF THE SITE IN ANY FORM IS PROHIBITED UNLESS OTHERWISE NOTED IN OUR, Fabric Grain: What It Is + How To Fix It If It's Off, anywhere you need the fabric to “bend” more smoothly around a curve, such as, Some folks prefer to rip across. The only way to ensure a straight, square cut is to cut your fabric “on grain”. 1 Replies 1 like. Crosswise grain is the threads that run perpendicular to the selvage of the fabric or the cut edge of the fabric as it comes off the bolt. 2. When we are working with the fabrics, we must train ourselves to know the fabric lengthwise and crosswise grain by just looking at them. They can stabilize and help you square-up the outer edges of blocks or quilt tops. … That’s why, a lengthwise grain takes and holds crease or fold better that a crosswise grain. If you know that your finished dress will look perfect only when it is made on the right grainline, but you don't know exactly what all you need to know. Lengthwise yarn stretches less than the crosswise yarn Dresses, shirts, blouses, skirts are cut with the lengthwise grain of the fabric coming down the body. In contrast to the straight grain, you can also design garments which use the grain on a 45-degree angle, this is called bias cut. Although most pattern pieces are cut on the lengthwise grain, some sewing patterns require to be cut crosswise on fabric. When the look of a dress demands more … When your grain is off, you’ll see that one of your corners is short. Either way, pulling out this single thread will give you a straight line across the fabric. A bias fabric will stretch differently than fabric that is cut the normal way. Fabric squares and rectangles are nearly always cut with their edges along the straight grains to minimize stretch during sewing and handling. Although most pattern pieces are cut on the lengthwise grain, some sewing patterns require to be cut crosswise on fabric. It's important to know how to cut fabric grainline correctly, to get the right feel and look of your stitched dress. Why does grain matter? At one corner, fray the fabric so you can get ahold of one thread and pull as described above. You see, each pieces of fabric is made of thousands of threads. But if it’s off by too much, your designs won’t line up when you’re trying to match panels and your seams can bunch or stretch because they’re actually being sewn too close to the bias. Remember those little vertical stripes we saw on the right side of the fabric? Requires fewer seam lines (unless wanted). Fold the fabric along the center line, aligning the selvages together. Meaning, on one single thread or as close to it as possible. These long lengthwise threads are called the "warp threads". It … When the look of a dress demands more elasticity and hanging on effect, we use biased line. The 45 angle cut is called the true bias. Requires less fabric and therefore less waste. 11. 5. Do not cut it on the bias as it will stretch out and be strange. Fold it in half again to see if the edges now align. In gingham (a 'yarn dyed' fabric, meaning that the stripes are made from weaving different color yarns, not printed) it is easy to see if the grain is in alignment. For printed fabrics that require pattern matching, check to ensure that your fabric is on-grain before you begin. To put fabric on the grain I was taught to pull a thread in the fabric until a line gets all the way across. Easier construction and fabric cutting. Lengthwise grain runs along the same direction as the selvages — the length of fabric. This is very important to know before cutting the fabric, if you want your clothing to look good. If pattern piece is to be cut on the bias, cutting it on the grain or cross grain will cause problems as it will not hang right and may stretch strangely. Then cut across that line. We’re here to give you a better understanding of fabric grain and some tips on how to straighten it. Bias grain is the thread line that is at a forty-five-degree angle to the lengthwise and crosswise grain of the fabric as it is on the bolt. Pillowcase fabric is usually a pretty tight weave. A straight cut will be stiff. Crosswise grain shows threads that run across the fabric. How to Use Sew4Home PDFs: Articles + Patterns, Why Sew4Home is a Janome Exclusive Studio, Quilted Flannel Christmas Stocking with Sherpa Cuff. When cloth is neither lengthwise nor crosswise, it is called as bias.